Tuesday, August 19, 2008

Jobless in Riyadh

To console myself tonight I am promising the following: I will not age in this city nor will I die in it. They may bury me in Riyadh, whoever they are that wash and burry the dead, but my readers will forever know that my wish is to be turned to ashes and blown in the face of wilder lands--Canada will do.

Three weeks into a holiday which I was obligated to take along with my colleagues (though I barely started working) have brought me back to what I vaguely knew: one should not sit jobless in Riyadh. Work in this city is the figurative alternative for alcohol consumption, a series of escapes. Without the alternatives, these days, I am conscious of being imprisoned in a variety of fancy houses.

Because I am very sad inside, feeling emotionally clogged and suffocated, I have been increasingly caving-in. There’s truly not much interest on my behalf to chat with anyone about the wonderful things I do throughout my day—caring for a toddler, walking in the house, walking in the other house, eating what the maids have generously cooked and trying to strike up interest in life by calling up a friend or going to the mall.

There is something DEAD in Riyadh, I recognize it starting with myself. Dead as the beef kept inside a fridge so as to "age it" without rotting. On my first weeks in Riyadh, my toddler would cry asking to go to the ocean. I tell him there are no oceans in Riyadh, but then he wants to go swing, slide and swim in a pool.

A lot of planning has to be done in Riyadh, to satisfy such little requests. If you don’t have a pool or a playground in your house, which I don’t, you must arrange to go to a family’s house which has a playground or a public playground after investigating whether it is safe, clean and if the weather has cooled down. Let’s not forget arranging transportation and better yet a man to come along with you for reasons of safety. Another thing to consider for the public option is that you'll have to wear the abaya and the headscarf. There's going to be little freedom to chuckle, laugh and run about with the child without being scrutinized or mistaken by other men for flirty.

Men in Riyadh whose car pedals only need their feet, cannot emotionally understand how it is like for outgoing women to be living in Riyadh—even if they theoretically empathize. The daily struggle between needing a man in Riyadh and craving for independency is so complicated that it drives the sanest insane. It can evoke sensitivity on both the man and woman who find their relationship redefined by the country law as well as the cultural norm as father and a child (a servant and a spoilt brat!?)

In the pitch dark right now I look about my house and feel little interest in furnishing it further. Five years from now I hope I would move on. I am heavy as it is and should not ground myself in Riyadh much further.

25 comments:

PrinceJimi said...

I am really sorry for the way you feel now, I am also sad to say that it does not get any better... u tend to get used to it though.
"Friends in the States ask me with concern if I am sad to return home; quite the contrary. I am eager to resume the life of an employed person, to have little E. grow surrounded by grandparents, uncles and aunts and to have the time & money to explore the world and pursue the hobbies I love."

I am sure its many times worse for a returning female than it is for a male.
Hang in there...

Hning said...

and if you don't get used to it? if you never get used to the dry and harsh climate of the people and buildings and breath of sand there? what's worse than death is the process of dying. watching your soul writhering and shrinking ad not having much to do about it but to hold on...jeez...i'm not making thing any better for you am i? they have made exceptions for the insane, can't they make some more for the sane(r)?

wanna hang out?

i've just confirmed my own execution date (Sept5th). your house or mine?

frogman said...

i really doubt there is anything any of us can say that will make you feel better.

i would suggest you move somewhere in the region.. dubai? or bahrain maybe? :)

Abu Dhabi/UAE Daily Photo said...

Oh, Aysha...reading that made my heart sink. Repatriating is NEVER easy no matter where you're going home to. If you're going to stay in Riyadh for any length of time you'll have to find something that gives you purpose. Hang in there...

American Bedu said...

Aisha,

Take advantage of this time you now have before you resume your regular job to start that book that is just waiting there inside of you desiring itself to be written. You have an excellent way with words and quite frankly I think if you put your mind to it, any book you write would FAR surpass Girls of Riyadh. Come see me...we'll plot it out. I'll get ya to work! (smile)

And come on over... since I last saw you I discovered that there actually is a gym and pool here where I live. I'd welcome a work out partner!

Carol

Saudi in US said...

Aysha,

Your post is so beautifully written, even a male living in the US can relate because of your ability to express so eloquently.

Carol is right you have talent. Writing a book may be a great outlet. In case you decide to do it, I want to be the first to request an autographed copy.

Stay strong...

Eman said...

Aysha depression is tough and people fall prey to it no matter where they live. If all the talented and creative gave up and left, where would that leave our country?
And if its conversation you're looking for, like American Bedu, I'm extending you an invitation :)
Eman
www.Saudiwoman.wordpress.com

Aysha said...

Honestly, you guys are awsome. One thing you need in Riyadh, for sure, is positive contacts and networks. Please stay tuned while I overcome the current turbalences/negativity...

Laurie said...

Aysha, I have always wondered what it would be like to follow these laws. I can see why you would stay home rather than plan and plan for a little pool time, but it must be brutal with a toddler to occupy.

Hang in there, and thank you for sharing your feelings.

Lawrence of Arabia said...

This broke my heart.

I have been following what bits and pieces of your life that I can online, you comments and updates here and on facebook. I wonder if I will get to see it again and even if I do will I recognize the place I saw through the eyes of a child. For now you are as close as I get to really seeing it.

You and your family are in our thoughts and prayers. Wishing you the best,

LoA.

Lawrence of Arabia said...

"I wonder if I will get to see it again"...

"it" being Saudi, of course. :/

LoA.

Nasser said...

so true .. although I'm from riyadh I suffer.. something is missing there .. i found that
Riyadh is a city for working people only .. Not suitable for those who are having vacation or unemployed ..

you can live and get use to it, but you won't be satisfied ..

i'm making it worse for you, sorry .. but this is riyadh there are no other better choices in SA ..

nice blog :)

NA

Abdul said...

Am I the only one who is happy for you now ?

come on !

this feelings unleashed your creativity, hence, it's important to to the advantage of being in Riyadh and do your homework girl ! write that book.

Aafke said...

This is such a sad post, and yet you can write it in such a beautiful and poetic style, yet you are never fussy.
I am sorry to read this, it is very scary, in a psygological way.
Yes, write books!
You need a job to get out and dó something, but I feel your talents are wasted on a ''normal'' job anybody can perform. Put some time apart to do the amazing heartrending job you are so good at.

Yawarakai said...

For me the worst thing about Riyadh is the social obligations.. i was born and raised there but for the past 6 years i have not spent more than a month at a time in Riyadh.. i will have to go home one day.. but i just choose not to think about that!!

good luck with finding ur way, but i do believe getting a job in Riyadh is the best solution for now.. the more active u are the better..

Ishraq said...

Aysha, You need to get out of there someday!! or it'll eat you alive =|

Great post!

Haifa said...

all i have to say is YES. I live in the US right now and whenever i go back to Riyadh i go crazy because i'm only there on vacation.

i like the idea of a book. that is something that will definitely keep you occupied!


Thank you for doing what your doing. Good luck and stay strong!

Sakina said...

I guess I am joining this late, but better than never. See, Riyadh is a great place if you make it one. It is a matter of attitude and a willingness to get out and do what you want to. Who said u need a man to go with u to the park? Just go!! pick a good time to go, maybe make it a play date with other friends with kids, and live ur life!! there are things to do here but people get into a rut and just sit waiting for something to change. It wont change until we change it by getting out there, doing things. ok there is no ocean but have u seen the beauty of a desert also? Riyad River bed, go hiking, make picnics, go to the top of a sand dune and have early breakfast coffee and donuts--- still one of my best memories in the ten years I have been here. Life is what you make it. Read the 10/90 principle by Steven Covey at my site, www.islamzpeace.wordpress.com

And yes,,, write that book but you dont need to sit at home to do it... go sit in some nice food courts, coffee shops, brainstorm nice places you can go, and you can do it!!

Talal said...

I can totally relate to what you are talking about in your experiences in Riyadh, having also suffered the same culture shock when i first came back from the US in the late 80s.

The thing about Riyadh that you probably noticed is that people who live there can't wait for an excuse to leave and get a change of scenery be it in Jeddah Khobar, Bahrain, UAE, Lebanon, Egypt ....etc.

Riyadh is a place where you work work work & save money save money save money.

I have learned that traveling is a great joy, as for the kids you might have noticed the "istri7at" or small treats on the outskirts of the city that family sometimes rent so their kids can swim and run around.

Having Family in Riyadh Helps allot I don't know how foreigners coupe with it.

Wish you the best of luck and hang in there you get used to it after a while and it wont be too long before your off traveling here and there every chance you get.

Lou said...

Hey Aysha, I live in Saudi Arabia as well and I find it a very dry place, there is no room for anyone to be themselves, to exist, to be a mind. I know what you're going through, and I respect your promise to yourself. Good luck and always try to be motivated to do anything while being here. Depressing is easy, getting out of it isn't, so try to avoid it and keep up the creativity.

Lou

Anonymous said...

Many thanks for putting into words what I feel!
As an American in Riyadh for the past several years, I don't think I will ever get used to it. Hence I am going back soon. I have to, for my sanity -literally.
I need to be able to look out my window & see the green grass growing, to walk down my street and see trees & flowers & lawns as the friendly neighbors wave hello - and not have anyone staring at me if my abaya slips an inch up my wrist.
I need to be able to drive my kids and myself over to the waterside, letting the warm breeze and refreshing water tickle my feet.

So yes, I know how you feel. I certainly hope, with family nearby and istiraaha retreats, you will find some way to make this work for you.

Peace.

Sharon said...

Hi Aysha! I feel for your pain. I am an American, but am married to a Saudi. I lived in Saudi Arabia for 5 years, but that was a long time ago now. It was very difficult and I felt somewhat like a child there. Not everything there was bad - I have some good memories and experiences and made some good friends. My husband's family was nice to me, but the homesickness sometimes pressed down so heavily on me. I wanted to be able to go out when I wanted to without the stares. To feel the sun or rain (in the case of Portland a lot of times) on my skin and the wind in my hair. The last year I was there was the best year for me and I thought that maybe I could have a life in Saudi and I could be happy, but my husband decided he wanted to come back to Portland. I don't know if after all the time that has passed whether I could ever live there again, but we do go back for visits. If you ever want anything from Portland, let me know. I hope that you can adjust back to life over there. Take care of yourself!

Anonymous said...

Reading that brought tears to my eyes :(
I'm Brazilian, married to a Saudi man. We studied in USA, lived in Brazil for 2 years, and now for 5 years we've been living here... unfortunately, this is a city that time just passes by, we work, come back home, and then work, back home, life is passing and nothing exciting is really happening :) We make good friends and then, they go...
I feel your pain and really wish things are gonna be all right for you and your loved one :)

Anonymous said...

tell me about Riyadh!!!

thanks alot...I don't know why I feel happy whenever I hear someone complains about Riyadh....

Anonymous said...

Hi...today i was searching for something on google and they puted ur website i'm so thankful for google now ..:P
i guess it has been along time since u last felt those things i mean it's from last year but i'm having the same feelings right now ... yet i have been in riyadh for over than a year ... and it rly felt good to see that other people feel the same way i feel
so i guess there is no solution for this problem i mean we have to get into its' mood ( riyadh ):P
Ps: u SHOULD write a book i love the way u write...tc